The Tea Journal · Field Notes
What's in the bush?
The flavor in your cup begins not at the factory but in the plant — which plant it comes from, and how many different varieties grow together, determine everything that follows.
A cultivar is a cultivated variety of a plant, selected because it reliably produces something desirable — better flavor, higher yield, resistance to cold or disease — and then propagated to preserve those traits. In tea, cultivar selection is the difference between a field that performs predictably and one that surprises you every season. In Darjeeling, the cultivar names almost always refer to the estate where the plant was first identified.
IThe two parent plants
All tea comes from Camellia sinensis, but the species has two distinct varieties that produce very different results.
China Type
var. sinensis
- Small leaf, slow growing
- Cold hardy — thrives at high altitude
- Delicate and aromatic
- Lower yield
Assam Type
var. assamica
- Large leaf, fast growing
- Heat tolerant — lowland production
- Strong and malty
- High yield
The British planted China sinensis seeds in Darjeeling from 1841, because the variety could handle the altitude and cold. Over a century of cultivation, those plants crossed with Assam varieties — deliberately and by accident. The result: virtually every major Darjeeling cultivar today is a hybrid of the two.
IIThe famous cultivars of Darjeeling
The Tea Research Association has registered around 30 cultivars suited to Darjeeling. A handful dominate the conversation.
Ambari Vegetative 2
Ambari estate · The most prized aromatic cultivar
The most prestigious and expensive cultivar in Darjeeling. Produces delicate teas with notes of white flowers and stone fruits, and serves as a parent in breeding new varieties across the region.
Bannockburn 157
Bannockburn estate · Quality over yield
Developed for quality and resilience in Himalayan growing conditions. Strikingly crisp, bright and refreshing — fresh green almonds and sweet spring meadows.
Phoobsering 312
Phoobsering estate · Reliable mid-elevation standard
Appreciated for its softness and refined mouthfeel — sweeter, rounder profiles with floral undertones. The foundation cultivar for most Darjeeling clonal blends.
Thurbo 78
Thurbo estate · The muscatel specialist
Valued for structure and consistency — bright, brisk and lively in the cup. Darjeeling's famous grape-like muscatel aroma, which develops when leafhoppers feed on the leaves, is linked to T78's genetics.
IIIWhy single-cultivar tea is rare here
Most Darjeeling tea — from estates and small farmers alike — is not from a single cultivar. The reason is straightforward: most gardens were planted from seed, not cuttings. A seed-planted field contains dozens of genetically distinct plants growing side by side. Every plant is its own individual. The tea made from that field is a blend before it ever enters the factory — by design and by history.
A seed-planted field is a population — and the tea it produces is its portrait.
Access to clonal material is also a structural barrier. Establishing a plot of AV2 or B157 requires nursery cuttings, infrastructure to root and grow them, and years before the plot produces anything sellable. Most small farmers lack this access — the mixed fields they work are passed down, not chosen.
For this reason, genuinely single-cultivar teas from Darjeeling are exceptionally rare. When they exist, they offer a glimpse into the pure expression of one plant — reflecting not only the cultivar itself, but the precision, patience and access required to grow it separately in a region historically defined by diversity.
Our Spring 2026 harvest is a rare chance to taste this article — both single-cultivar and mixed-clonal teas, grown by small farmers:
Single Cultivar · P312
Spring Moonlight
The pure expression of Phoobsering 312 — soft, round, floral.
€16,00 →Mixed Clonal · T78 & AV2
Spring Delight
Two cultivars in conversation — quince, wildflowers, dark honey.
€16,00 →Single Cultivar · AV2
Spring Blossom
Darjeeling's most prized plant, on its own — orchids and honey.
€19,00 →Sources
Hortfire (2018), AV2, One of the Kings of Darjeeling Tea Cultivars · Darjeeling Tea Boutique (2025), Analysis of Darjeeling Tea Clones · Discovering Tea (2011), B157, P312 and AV2 · PMC / Springer (2012), Understanding Darjeeling tea flavour on a molecular basis